My examination of Twin Peaks costumes continues with a look at Leland Palmer (Ray Wise) from Season 1. Similar to Audrey Horne, there were two costumers since Leland appeared in both the Pilot episode and episodes 1.001-1.007.
TWIN PEAKS COSTUMING TEAM
For the Pilot Episode, the late Patricia Norris served as the Costume Designer. She was was joined by Ron Leamon as Wardrobe Supervisor and Earl Lewis as Key Costumer. In a June 2015 interview with IndieWire.com, David Lynch reflected on Norris’ contributions to the look of Twin Peaks:
“She set the look of ‘Twin Peaks.’ Again, people talked about the way the characters on ‘Twin Peaks’ were dressed. She’s sort of perfect at everything she does.”
Sarah Markowitz took over costuming duties for Seasons 1 and 2.
“My thoughts going forward after the pilot were of a small town in the Pacific Northwest where the people would hold on to their clothing for years and years,” explained Markowitz in Brad Dukes’ “Reflections: An Oral History of ‘Twin Peaks‘ (page 59). “They were practical, hard-working folks whose money was not spent on expensive clothing. I felt they shopped at local Goodwill stores or at most, Horne’s Department Store.”
With that said, let’s start at the beginning.
PILOT EPISODE
We are first introduced to Leland Palmer as he conducts business with Benjamin Horne at the Great Northern Hotel. He’s sporting a jacket and dress slacks with a sweater and tie.
As he crosses the lobby to take a phone call from his wife Sarah, we get a good look at his dress shoes.
Details on his sport coat are seen when he comforts Sarah.
Leland’s entire outfit is best seen when he goes to the morgue with Sheriff Truman to identify Laura’s body.
Details of his tie and jacket are seen when he breaks down in the morgue.
He wears the same outfit when Deputy Hawk is gathering evidence in Laura’s bedroom.
INTERNATIONAL PILOT
We’re treated to a bonus outfit during the ending of the International version of the Pilot episode. Leland is wearing pajamas and a robe, something we won’t see again until episode 1.004.
EPISODE 1.001
Leland likes sweater vests as we see him wearing one again in episode 1.001.
I wonder if it is the same vest he wore in the Pilot.
You’ll see Leland mostly in dress attire throughout Seasons 1 and 2. Makes sense since he is a lawyer (it’s what I imagine an attorney in 1989 would wear).
EPISODE 1.002
As Leland stands beside his turntable, we see another sport coat. The pants may be the same as the previous episode.
Do I spy another sweater vest? It’s actually the same vest as episode 1.001.
After smashing Laura’s photo, we catch a glimpse of his dress shoes.
Jacket details are seen as he smears blood across Laura’s homecoming photo.
EPISODE 1.003
Just before Leland is reunited with Madeline Ferguson in episode 1.003, we see him sitting on a couch watching “Invitation to Love.”
Just before he jumps onto Laura’s casket at her funeral, we catch his suit and tie.
His funeral attire is best viewed in a publicity photo that The Mauve Zone posted.
The Mauve Zone also had this fantastic publicity shot taken during this episode. I wish something like this existed for every episode.
By the end of episode 1.003, Leland has changed into a striped cardigan sweater as he dances solo at The Great Northern Hotel.
When Deputy Hawk and Special Agent Dale Cooper offer to take him home, we catch a look at his belt.
Interestingly, this is the same outfit seen on the 1991 StarPics card for Leland Palmer.
“Weaknesses: BOB.” You think?
EPISODE 1.004
A brief appearance in episode 1.004 has Leland dressed in a robe and pajamas. The PJs are different than the International Pilot ending but the robe may be the same.
EPISODE 1.005
The grieving Mr. Palmer suddenly shows up at Ben Horne’s office in episode 1.005. He’s wearing the same outfit as the one seen at the end of Episode 1003.
He cleans up and puts on a double-breasted suit for the Icelandic reception at The Great Northern Hotel.
How many times have I watched this episode? Hundreds, right? Why have I never noticed the piece of tissue on Leland’s face to cover up a shaving cut? Oh, the brown sweater vest is back.
Will someone please dance with him? It is serious.
EPISODE 1.006
A short-but-creepy appearance in episode 1.006 shows Leland sitting on a couch in the dark. He looks after Maddy who just left to meet up with James Hurley and Donna Hayward. Pay attention to the color of his collar.
EPISODE 1.007
For episode 1.007, I’m going to go out on a limb and say Leland was the one who attacked Dr. Jacoby at Easter Park. Remember his gloves.
Remember the collar from episode 1.006? It’s the same shirt.
And those gloves from the attack at Easter Park? Looks similar to me.
I wonder if it is the same jacket too.
I close this article with a great outtake from the hospital scene where we see the entire outfit. Take a look at Leland Palmer’s wardrobe from Season 2 in this Costuming Peaks article.
